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This story we will call the
Tale of Two Rieslings! Riesling is possibly the most
noble of the white wine grapes. It makes some of the most
distinctive and beautiful expressions of both aromatics and
flavors depending where in the world it is grown. I have
been a fan of this grape since drinking Riesling from the
Alsace region in France as I worked my way through College
cooking in the kitchen of a French Restaurant. Most of the
Riesling from that area is made in a dry, crisp style and
that is what I fell in love with. However, in Germany (and a
little in Alsace) Riesling is made to be slightly sweet –
originally the sweetness was left in the wine because in the
cold areas of the rivers in Germany the acidity was so sharp
and almost sour by the time the rains were coming they would
not ferment all the sugar to alcohol to help balance that
acidity – giving them the sweet/tart result. The high
acidity wakes the wonderful food wines! Well, there’s the
motive for the story…I have wanted to make Riesling for a
long time, but only if I could make something that was dry
and crisp – not sweet and to be an expression of where it
comes from – but be grown in the right place for this grape
– because I can’t be in Germany or Alsace.
Five years ago I met two different growers that both showed
promise in my quest to make Riesling – The first is Kelly
McFarland – he is a 4th generation grower in the cool Santa
Lucia Highlands in Monterey – he owns the oldest producing
Riesling Vineyard in California – I heard about the
vineyard…and tracked him down. At the time the grapes were
going into a larger wine made by a larger winery, and made
slightly sweet. Long story short, I convinced Kelly to let
me make a little bit of wine keeping his grapes separate and
making it in a crisp dry style – a classy white wine for
summer sipping and for as a serious aperitif wine. He agreed
and this 08 is our Second vintage. The Sonoma Coast vineyard
was a vineyard originally planted to Pinot Noir that the
grower could not get to ripen because he was too close to
the Coast to be warm enough to ripen…the perfect scenario
for Riesling and with some arm twisting I convinced him to
graft it over to Riesling for me and this 2008 is our first
vintage from that vineyard…but that’s just the beginning of
the Tale – really, the story is in the tasting!!…and you get
to write it!
Grab some soft cheeses, and/or oysters, or other seafood and
open a bottle of each wine.
The Sonoma Coast is floral and laced with hints of peach and
spice from its long time on the vine and alluvial soils so
near the Ocean. The texture is crisp yet still having a
richness that makes it mouthcoating- a more fruit and floral
wine with lots of interesting layers that keep unfolding as
the wine warms up in your glass – Amazing with Halibut!
The Monterey is planted in heavy granite soils, very rocky,
and the deep 60 year-old roots have a special relationship
with the soil – so not only do you get the classic Riesling
spice but a real minerality, aromas of being near a bubbling
creek and of the wet stone – that character has wildflower
and honey aromas too, yet also has no sweetness – to the
Riesling aficionado it is said to have hints of “petrol”
famous in some areas of Germany.
One is not better than the other – both great but both
different – that’s the fun – In our Tasting Room at the
winery the crowd is always split 50/50 as to their personal
favorites.
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